FEEL FREE TO COPY THIS INSTRUCTION SHEET.  I GIVE THIS TO ANYONE WHO PURCHASES A PET BUNNY FROM ME.  IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS FEEL FREE TO E-MAIL ME
BUNNY BUNNDLES RABBITRY
INSTRUCTION
PAGE!
   FEEDING


    Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems which are more delicate the first six (6) minths.  Here are some basic rules which should be followed to help your bunny get off to a good start.

1.  NEVER  feed greens to a rabbit younger than six (6) months old.  It gives them a very upset tummy which can start with loose and watery stools and end in death.

2. Rabbits only need pelleted food to eat to keep them healthy.  Netherland Dwarfs only need 1/4 or 1/3 of a cup of pellets a day.  One can always free feed if they wish but consideration should be taken that they can over eat and gain extra wieght which can lead to health problems.  Wieght gain is especially risky for a doe which is going to be bred.

3.  You may suppliment your rabbits feed if you wish.  Suggested "treats" for young bunnies would be oatmeal, whole wheat bread, banana's, crackers, ect.  When bunnies reach six (6) months of age
you can offer them small amounts of carrots, apples, or some light greens (never cabbage or broccoli).  Only start with small amounts and check for watery stools (a sign they ate too much to quickly and it has upset their stomache).

HOUSING

    Rabbits do not require a lot of room.  Their cage should be big enough to turn around in, stand up in,  and stretch out.  If you will be breeding it, the cage should be large enought to hold a nest box too.  Here are some other basics:

1.  More than one doe(female rabbit) may be housed together provided they are in a large enough cage and get along.  One must seperate if they continue to fight after a few hours.

2.  Never house two bucks(male rabbit) or a doe and a buck
together. They will get to aggressive and can chew eachother up pretty badly and even kill one another.

3.  If the rabbit will be outside than the cage will need a roof for shade and to protect agianst rain ect.  It will also need to have a side, or be placed somewhere, to offer refuge from direct wind which can cuase upper repitory diseases.  Rabbit CAN do well in extreme cold.  One should remember to check for frozen water and make sure plenty of drinking water is supplied.  RABBITS DO NOT HANDLE EXTREME HEAT!!!  See Summer hints below.

SUMMER HEAT HINTS

    Summer days are very hard on rabbits.  They are unable to sweat.  They pant like dogs and loose heat through their ears. (That's why in summer baby bunnies will have larger ear size.  Could this be how the Jack rabbit got his huge ears in the dessert?)  I believe summer heat
to be the #1 cuase of death for pet bunnies.  They can die if left in direct sunlight in as little as 15 minutes!  If temp get over 80 degrees bucks can go sterile.  Over 85 degrees and bunnies can suffer a heat stroke and die.  So here are some hints to help keep them cool and happy:

1. Frozen water bottles are a favorite cooling device.  However remember if in extreme heat, (like here in CA where we can see 120+ days for weeks at a time) a frozen water bottle may only stay frozen for an hour or two.  Once it is defrosted it is of no help to your bunny.  So if you are not home to go replace a frozen bottle every couple of hours, or have more than one rabbit, I would not suggest this method.

2.  Burlap sacks can be draped on the outside of your cage and soaked several times a day to help reduce temps around the cage.

3.  A sprinkler put on a low setting placed on top of the cage with burlap sacks can keep a constant flow of water flowing and cooling the surroundings.

4.  Large ceramic tiles can be placed in the cage to help pull body heat from the bunnies.  Or some claim a small box of damp dirt can offer the same effect, however it may be more messy.

5. What I remomend most is the use of a mister system.  You can find these at your home supply stores ranging in price from 5-25 dollars depending on brand and type.  They use very little water and in 7 years of riasing rabbits I have had no heat strokes when using this method.


BREEDING TIPS


    As we know, rabbits are prolific.  They can multiply puickly.  If you have a doe and a buck you should read this so you can breed responsibly.

1.  Always bring the doe to the bucks cage.  Does are territorial and will attack a buck put in their cage.

2. Watch carefully!  All the buck has to do is make correct contact and he is done.  It only takes SECONDS!  You will know the buck was successful becuase he will fall over on his back.

3. Write down the date of the breeding on your calendar.  Cound out twenty-eight days from then and mark that day also.  That will be the day you will need to put in a nesting box with shaving, straw, ripped up newspaper, etc for the nesting material.

4.  The doe will deliver her babies on the thirtieth (30yh) day or no later than the thirty third (33rd) day after conception.

5.  You will know the babies are coming soon when the doe starts putting nesting materials in her mouth and starts to pull fur from her belly to line the nest with.

6.  Leave her alone to do her task.  After she is done, you can carefully check the young and count them.  Check daily to make sure you see nice round tummies!
Good Luck!


COMMON PROBLEMS


Loose Stools or diareah----could mean the rabbit is stressed or could be an indication of an illness----Try feeding oat meal.  If it doesn't work go buy a product called "dry tail" at your local pet store and follow the diretctions for hamsters.

Sneezing, runny nose, and or eyes.----Could be allergies of a sign of an upper respitory disease-----Keep out of direct wind and give an oral antibiotic.(check with your local feed store)

Shaking head, crusty ears, scabs or unexplained fur loss---could be mites.  If in the ears mineral oil or a miticide can be put in the ears.  If on the body vasoline can be put on the affected area and/or a light dusting of a miticide powder can be used(agian check with your local feed store)

    Any of these problems can occur in even the best of environments.  Care should always be given to make sure rabbits have clean water, adiquite amounts of food, a dry clean livint area, and dialy attention.

     











   
FEEL FREE TO COPY THIS INSTRUCTION SHEET.  I GIVE THIS TO ANYONE WHO PURCHASES A PET BUNNY FROM ME.  IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS FEEL FREE TO E-MAIL ME